In order to hook on the metro (ahem, crochet, that is) for six hours a week, one does need materials. And no, I'm not talking stripper shoes and corsets.
I have yet to go to the famed Gato Negro in Madrid's city center, although I have stopped by three mercerías (yarn and notions shop, also defined as haberdashery, but I have not a clue what that means) in Vallecas and Vicálvaro. I was surprised that, as both of these neighborhoods are classified as "blue collar", their sewing shops were disappointing, to say the least. It seems that yarn work in Spain has become something for the rich and famous - see the many adorable cutesy yarn shops in Salamanca, with yarn at prices I can't afford on my student budget - or for the elderly, who are accustomed to making projects in season, and thus expect the yarn shop to be out of wool yarns since it's 45 degrees celcius outside. I, however, was floored when I asked to see their collection of wool blends (lanas) and was told that all they had was what I was seeing. So sad.
In case you are shopping for yarn here in Madrid, you should know this: when you walk into a yarn shop, most of their yarns will be behind the counter, and you have to ask them to pull down what you would like to see since you can't, as I nostalgically call it, "browse by touch". This is annoying and time-consuming, and you have to have a pretty good mastery of "Spanish for Hookers" parlance - which, incidentally, I acquired through this website -, although the great thing about having to physically interact and converse with the shopkeeper (oh, how I miss you Michaels and Jo Ann Fabrics!) is that they know their product, and they often know what product you need, even if you don't. And they will tell you; Spaniards are open like that. As in, "No, I think I'd like a grey that's a bit lighter"... "No, you need this grey for that hat. It will be better. The End."
So, here are the three shops that I have visited recently, with a few comments on each:
1. Mercería in Mercado Villa de Vallecas
Address: c/ Sierra Vieja, 61, 28031 Madrid (Vallecas, Casco histórico)
This is an alterations shop that happens to have things by way of yarn. They cater heavily to crochet threads and knitting. Their button selection is slim pickin's. I purchased two balls of Katia Costa Rica for 3.80€ each and a 3.00mm crochet hook for 2.10€. They didn't have any crochet hooks between 3.00mm and 7.00mm, "because it's not the season for those hooks" (this logic is flawed, at best, but here I'd like to draw your attention to the "shopkeeper is always right" mentality that I referenced above). I also purchased two wooden buttons for another project, and I believe these were about .20€ each. They had a small selection of ribbons. I wish they had more, as this shop is super convenient to my house, but alas. I will update with any amazing finds.
2. Mercería in Vicálvaro
Address: Mercería / Lencería Benita; cross of c/ Jardín de la Duquesa and c/ Mercurio, 28032, Madrid (Vicálvaro)
I happened upon this shop because I am currently nannying a girl who lives right across the street. I didn't have great expectations, as this is primarily a lencería (lingerie shop, but not in the dirty way). They only had one set of shelves with yarn, and they are very poor quality (Dulce). However, this is the place to go to stock up on buttons. The browsing experience is a delight, as they have arranged the buttons in folders based on color, and you can actually touch and play with the buttons before requesting them. Most buttons range from 0.07€-0.50€, with the mean being around 0.17€ per button. And the buttons are adorable! I picked up everything from wooden buttons to silver-plated buttons to wooden buttons shaped like rabbit faces to flat white buttons for 0.07€ a pop. They were adorable, and it was one of the best buying experiences I've had. Incidentally, the yarn skeins cost 1.25€ or 1.50€, depending on the weight (the finer weights are more expensive). They are all acrylic, but I will be returning for ribbons - of which there are hundreds!! - and buttons. I spent about 8€ here and came home with 2 skeins of yarn and 22 adorable buttons. The shopkeeper even gave me a button that I wanted because they didn't have any more in stock - trust me, that doesn't happen in your average haberdashery... I still don't know what that word means.
3. Mercería y Labores Geva
Address: c/ Real de Arganda, 40, 28031 Madrid (Vallecas, Casco histórico)
If Michaels had a baby with a Spanish mercería, it would probably look something like this shop. There is even a clearance section, where I purchased two skeins of wool / acrylic Turkish yarns (whose name escapes my feeble brain) for 1.95€ each. They crocheted really nice, as I made a hat out of them yesterday. I also ended the search for THE IMPOSSIBLY DIFFICULT TO FIND 4.00mm crochet hook. And she acted like it was odd that I couldn't find the hook at other mercerías, which leads me to believe that they will have more hard-to-find supplies (insert evil laugh here). I purchased two skeins of Lanas Stop Top Merino yarn in rose and cream at 4.80€ a pop. I also picked up four buttons; two were silver with filigree and used in my baby Mary Janes (check them out on Etsy) and two pink buttons for 0.10€ each. I spent almost 16€ at this store, so until I start selling more Etsy items, this will be another one of those luxuries that I can't afford... like new underwear and Coca Cola. Oh, well, at least I'll lose weight and my boyfriend will have easy access through my holy drawers. Check out this shop if you want a good buying experience, but don't go on a Tuesday, when all the old ladies in a hurry are trying to get to the outdoor flea market and your browsing time will be limited.
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